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Say it slowly - Tac-o-ron-te A-con-te-jo (pronounced tay-ho). Significant because??? Monje is making the wine of my moment. In a sea of potential obsessions (call me lost in the EtnaJuraSacraAosta quadrangle, otherwise known as the pursuit of the newest fermented crystalline deliciousness), this is it. This is a wine that you want to keep going back to over and over again, excavating new flavors, bright glimmers of light pitched against the dank and dark New York City back drop. Yes, this wine is as thought provoking and complex as it is delicious, a wine that enchants as it brings its obscure place of origin, Tacoronte-Acontejo, to life.

Several recent experiences have rekindled my love for and my interest in the wines of the Jura, ardor that lies dormant during the summer months when easy going Rose briefly sweeps me off my feet. First, there was a bottle of ’07 Domaine de la Tournelle Trousseau, which bore its differences from my beloved Puffeney Trousseau with such grace that I was smitten. Then, there was a taste of ’06 Ploussard from Philippe Bornard, whose wines, in their best examples, offer such irresistible softness of texture and prettiness of fruit that it’s impossible not to be taken in. Finally, there was a chance, not just to taste numerous Jura wines but to taste them at the same time as a generous handful of Fino and Manzanilla sherries, to which Jura white wines are most often compared. I found myself curious and intrigued afresh.

We love Sicily – and we dream about going back to Sicily, but since we own the farm here in NYC, we can’t get there too often. Now we have another means to voyage there: Palmento – a Sicilian Wine Odyssey, by Robert Camuto, is a new book about Sicily and Sicilian wine, and it’s a fine book - well-written, deeply felt and keenly observed. Camuto has found most of the best of Sicilian wine (no easy feat given that – as in most places - there’s a good deal of very dull wine from Sicily). He understands the history of wine there and most importantly what the best possible future for Sicilian wine will be. We read the book with great pleasure; Camuto is very good on atmosphere, so aside from soaking up the wine reporting, our reading was full of happy nostalgia for some of our favorite places.
To celebrate the publication of Palmento, we are having a Sicilian weekend:
Friday, September 10, 5-7pm, Ciro Biondi will be here pouring his Etna Rosso and Bianco.
Saturday, September 11, 4-7pm, we will have a book signing with Robert Camuto, who will be joined by Ciro Biondi, Frank Cornelissen, and Alberto Graci – an extraordinary gathering of three of the best winemakers in Sicily. Wine will be poured!
Then, Dinner: After the tasting you are invited to join us at I Trulli for a feast of Sicilian wine and food. $120 per person for a multi-course meal and wine made by our visitors, including tax and tip. Space is limited; please call for reservations: 212-227-1434
Sunday, September 12, 3-6pm, Frank Cornelissen will pour his wines in the shop.

Never say never, but it’s unlikely that an offer like this one will be repeated again. For years now our favorite Champagne, and a leader in natural wine production in the region, Larmandier-Bernier makes extraordinary wine. Special circumstances now make the pricing beyond very tempting – Terres de Vertus, for example, was $72 and is now $46.99; the incredible Rose was $82 and is now $64.99, etc etc. We are all taking loans in order to stock our own cellars, and we recommend you do the same!
NB: some wines are here, and a couple will arrive this fall.
Some skilled tasters write about Champagne, but our preferred source for real wisdom and in-depth observation is Peter Liem, who publishes his work at www.champagneguide.net. A subscription is $89 for a year; as Peter remarks this is the price – or less – of a bottle of vintage Champagne. For the casual taster or serious afficianado this is an investment that will more than repay its cost.
Peter has written a great article about Larmandier-Bernier; rather than crib from the master, he has kindly given permission for us to reproduce it here:

One of the most enjoyable tastings I've had recently was with Pierre and Chantal Frick - 24 unique and delicious natural wines, nine of which have just arrived at Chambers Street. The Fricks work with each vintage according to what nature brings them, so there is a great variety from year to year - a fascinating diversity of cuvees, many of which are bottled without sulfites if conditions permit. Working organically since 1970, and certified Biodynamic since 1981, they have living soils that contribute to the health of the vines and the complexity of the wines. "The application of this more comprehensive approach to the life of the soil and vine advocated by bio-dynamie has changed our vineyard. The growing cycle of the vine is in better harmony. It is less sensitive to grey rot and insect pests. The better balance of the plant is conducive to good grape ripening and obtaining a better quality of juice (density, balance, minerality, vitality). From this the wines have revealed more depth and greater expression of terroir." The wines are hand harvested - "The social aspect of the harvest and the search for quality through successive pickings excludes the use of machine harvesters." Fermentations are with wild yeasts - "The soil and sub-soil and additionally the bloom and yeasts on the grapes constitute the terroir. For us, biodynamic viticulture and the expression of terroir require wild yeast fermentations." Aging is in old 3,000 liter casks which the Fricks prefer to stainless steel or barrique. "These casks allow breathing (airflow) and transpiration (evacuation of higher alcohols and esters) of wines, without changing their taste by the contributions of new oak." These are beautiful expressions of the terroirs of Pfaffenheim through a creative and responsible viticulture - we urge you to try a mixed case of these unique and delicious wines!

2009 Txakolinas are here! It is a great vintage for Spain's north coast, and hooray for prices coming down a bit. A dryer and warmer vintage brought more extract, stuffing and more mineral complexity to these light, searingly crisp and excitingly ethereal wines. Ameztoi's blanco is particularly impressive. Xarmant is a tremendous value and expresses its tufa soil incredibly - very savory and petrol in character. If you have not tried these extremely singular wines from Atlantic influenced terroirs -- Now is the time! They absolutely beg for summer refreshment. And we aim to serve the thirst!

When was the last time you drank Bandol, or Cassis Blanc… or Iroulegy for that matter? If you’re like me, until a few months ago when I received an invitation to lunch with Reynald Delille of Domaine de Terrebrune in Bandol, it may have been quite awhile, too long, perhaps. As I enjoyed Delille’s wines, the young, floral Bandol Rouge from the beautiful 2006 vintage as well as older vintages going back several decades, I wondered why Bandol wasn’t more of a staple in my home.

I have sold Luis Rodriguez's “A Torna Dos Pasas” Tinto for a couple of vintages now. It seems that every buyer has a wine or two in their section that they want to stay a little quiet about – just hand sell to friends and keep it their little secret. On Super Bowl Sunday my significant other and I had a couple of our wine-geek friends (both industry professionals) over for some roast pork and accoutrements. I served the A Torna Dos Pasas blind to my two friends, curious as to what they thought it might be. The guy exclaimed "Northern Rhone!" (right soil, Granite). His accompanying lady (and CSW colleague) theorized Piedmontese terroir (I can see the Barbera connections). After some lingering and theorizing of my own, I unveiled the wine, the bottle almost empty. My guy friend, an extreme Franco-phile, immediately called it "the best Spanish wine outside of Rioja that I’ve ever tasted!" At that moment it was apparent his hyperbole was not unwarranted. I had been feeling the same all along… We may have the greatest wine-maker in Galicia on our hands!